It looks like my quest for Birra Artigianale is running out of steam. It seems that there's not much market penetration for it outside of the specialist beer places in the big cities - so far I've found a couple of worthy examples but nothing to match the awesome stuff I've had at home from bierkompass.
So what do you do when you've come from Munich to Italy in search of interesting Italian beers? Drink Erdinger of course. Stands to reason guv.
Because this bit of Italy is just a short hop over the Brenner pass, Germans and German beer is everywhere - mainly Weissbier. In fact shop keepers and the like will often speak to you in German if you're not Italian looking.
But soft! What beer through yonder glass breaks?
'Tis non filtrata non pastorizzata...
At last, just as I'm about to head for my train home I find what I was looking for. Ambra Rossa it's called, and a spanking good beer it was, quite bitter in an unusual way. It seems restaurants are the place to go if you want to get an interesting beer in Italy. Thankyou San Gabriel.